Dreams Come to Life in Designer Biyan’s Latest Collection

Jakarta. Nothing big is ever achieved without dreaming. Our dreams transport us from the confines of our reality to a place where we can be who we always want to be.

Dreams have also led Indonesian fashion designer, Biyan Wanaatmadja, to stroll the streets of Dusseldorf, Germany, after school to admire the chic shops and boutiques that line them. Although he was studying architecture in the 1970s, his newly-found interests led him to totally change the course of his career and  become a fashion designer, a unique career choice for Indonesian men at the time.

Biyan then enrolled at one of Germany’s most renowned fashion colleges, Muller & Sohn Privatmodeschule, and studied pattern-making. Afterwards, he continued his study at the London College of Fashion in 1981.

After finishing his study and doing a brief apprenticeship for designer Enrico Coveri in Italy, he returned home to Jakarta in 1984 and started his eponymous label, Biyan.

More than three decades later, Biyan is one of the most successful designers in Indonesia, with his collections being displayed in top boutiques around the world. And each year, the designer stages an extravaganza showcasing his latest creations. Meticulously planned and prepared, these shows are among the most anticipated events in Jakarta’s fashion scene.

Biyan recently presented his Spring/Summer 2016 fashion collection at The Dharmawangsa hotel, South Jakarta, in a gala show themed “Dream.”

“It’s all about my own dreams, a collection of images representing the years of my life,” Biyan explained.

For the show, the luxury hotel’s grand ballroom was covered in white. A  large, white banyan tree stood at the center of the runway. Its massive, gnarled branches seemed to sustain the tall ceilings of the room.

Welcoming the guests to the dimly lit ballroom were five waif-like models, dressed in long, white dresses. Standing on the runway, these women writhed elegantly with their eyes closed, as if they were actually in the throws of a dream.

Biyan presented 100 new looks in the fashion show, which took “eight months to research, plan and design,” said the designer.

And the result was mind-blowing.

Taking inspiration from his childhood, Biyan presented a collection that was both dainty, yet demure and elegant. The show started with a string of models dress in white gowns adorned with intricate hand-embroideries and discreet crystal appliques. But the highlight of the first session was a long semi-transparent overcoat made of glittering tulle worn by Indonesian model Paula Verhoeven. Enhanced with black floral embroideries and dotted with crystals, the piece presented an impression of a very delicate, yet strong woman.

“It [represents] my archetypal woman, fragile and sensitive, but also strong at the same time,” Biyan said. “She knows who she is and decides what’s best for her.

“Each time I design a collection, I always imagine the women for whom I dedicate the dresses and then try to put myself in her shoes.”

That approach is probably what makes each of Biyan’s dresses so beautiful and unique.

The next part of the show was a feast to the eyes. In this sequence, Biyan blended baby pink and cerulean blue, beige and celadon, as well as gray and ivory into chic evening gowns and dresses that looked both cooling and refreshing.

Next came flared dresses, structured jackets, palazzo pants and A-line skirts in unique prints, latticed embroideries and lace appliques. Some of the prints, especially made for Biyan, were reminiscent of Tegel Kunci, floor tiles in the pattern of keys, often found in the old colonial houses of Central and East Java.

Some of the blouses in this sequence were kebaya-inspired, with shawl collars and fitted bodices that perfectly hugged the model’s torso. He combined the traditional silhouette with flared sleeves and ruffled asymmetrical hemlines. And just like kebayas, these were embellished with dainty eyelets along the cuffs and hemlines.

The designer also inverted the kebaya silhouettes on some of his blouses, so that the shawl collar and the opening are at the back, creating a sexy V-shape backline on the wearers. In monochromatic colors of black, white and beige, it would be easy to mix and match these items with simple pieces in your wardrobe.

“I never want to dictate my customers,” said the 61-year-old designer. “I want to give them as much room as possible to realize their own dreams with pieces of my collection.”

Annemarieke de Haan, vice president of personal care department of Unilever Indonesia who attended the show, was impressed with Biyan’s latest collection.

“Indonesia should be proud to have Biyan.” De Haan said. “His works really make the dreams of women in Indonesia come true.”

A guest sitting behind me audibly gasped, when Russian model, Julia Kotuleva, walked on the runway. The red-haired beauty looked very charming dressed in a black cocktail dress adorned with bold silvery embroideries of roses.

“I always come to Biyan’s show every year,” said Indonesian actress Becky Tumewu. “And each time, I find something fresh and unique in his collection. Although each piece is different, you can always tell Biyan’s intricate [signature of] details in his creations. “

Towards the end of the show, a rain of silver confetti fell from the banyan tree. As the models paraded on the runway, the designer himself came onstage to greet his guests, who in turn awarded him with a standing ovation.

As customary each year, proceeds from the ticket sales of Biyan’s show were donated to charities. This year, the designer chose to once again donate the funds to Habitat for Humanity, FAN Campus as well as the Komunitas Cinta Kasih (Love Community) in Bali.

“Biyan’s donations have helped us  build more houses for the less fortunate,” said James Tumbuan, national director of Habitat for Humanity. “From last year’s donations, we were able to build four houses in Mauk [Tangerang.”

Each house, according to the HFH national director, costs about Rp 50 million ($3,762).

FAN Campus, a drug rehabilitation center based in Cisarua, West Java, promised to help more drug addicts and train its counselors with Biyan’s donations.

“With the government’s renewed commitment to fighting drugs, we’ve been overwhelmed with new patients from all over Indonesia,” said Inti Nusantari Subagio, founder of FAN Campus. “So, Biyan’s donations will be very helpful for us to renew our facilities and train our counselors.”

Komunitas Cinta Kasih, on the other hand, plans to fund the schooling of 116 Balinese children with Biyan’s contribution.

“I just want to give thanks for all that God has given me,” said Biyan. “He’s blessed me with good health and allowed me to work on what I love.”

The designer himself doesn’t show any signs of slowing down after a successful, 32-year career.

“I still have so many dreams [to realize],” he said. “I want to see Indonesian fashion products loved in our own nation. And I also want to see Indonesian fashion have a strong influence on the international stage.

“I’m not talking about making [sudden] big changes, but taking small steps towards those goals.”