Designer Itang Yunasz says he couldn’t bring himself to cut up the Sumban textiles he bought, and instead used them as inspiration and a point of departure. (Photo courtesy of Jakarta Fashion Week 2015)
Looking at the island of Sumba from above is like looking at the arched backs of dinosaurs. Its undulating hills seem to glisten under the merciless glare of the sun.
Sumba is definitely one of the prettiest places in Indonesia. Unfortunately, it is also one of the most remote and poor.
Many parts of the island are untouched by electricity, rendering them totally dark at nightfall. However, its remote location is what preserves the traditional cultures of this island. The majority of Sumba’s people still dress, work and live in a manner similar to their ancestors, although recent decades have brought some significant changes, as documented by anthropologist Joel Kuipers.
“For me, it’s an exotic land, rich in natural beauty and traditions,” Muslim fashion designer Itang Yunasz says of his recent visit to the island.
While the Sumba men toil in paddies during the day, the women tend to their households and the livestock. They also weave beautiful textiles (tenun) in their spare time.
(Photo courtesy of Jakarta Fashion Week 2015)
“I saw their weaving process and was mesmerized. Tenun Sumba is definitely among the hardest one to work on,” Itang says.
The process of making tenun Sumba has also remained the same after many centuries. The textile is made from coarse cotton spun on a hexagonal wooden spinning wheel. The white cotton threads are then dyed in a concoction of roots, barks or leaves. The colored threads are then woven with a backstrap loom to create a long piece of cloth. During the weaving process, the women carefully count the threads and knot some parts of them to create the patterns.
The woven cloth is then dyed once again and dried under the sun. After the cloth is dry, the knots are then opened one-by-one and the patterns emerge on the textile. To reinforce the colors, the dyeing process may be repeated three or four times for each piece. It takes the weavers between six months and a year to complete a single textile.
(Photo courtesy of Jakarta Fashion Week 2015)
Tenun from west Sumba usually has small floral or geometric motifs, while those from East Sumba are usually embellished with bold human or animal motifs.
“I bought dozens of them [in Sumba],” Itang said. “Yet, I don’t have the heart to cut [the handwoven textile] and make them into clothes.” So, the designer has the motifs printed into chiffon, satin and raw silk for his new collection.
“I also experimented with a new material, named ‘scuba foam,’ [neoprene] for my new collection,” he said. “The material is lightweight, yet creates beautiful structures for my items.” (Project Runway fans will note that this is a favorite material of Nina Garcia.)
Itang presented his spring/summer 2015 collection earlier this month at Jakarta Fashion Week (JFW) 2015.
Themed “Exotic Journey,” his collection featured beautiful prints on women’s and men’s Muslim fashion inspired by tenun Sumba.
Since the overwhelming majority of Sumba’s population identifies as Christian and the remainder mostly animist, it is worth noting the cultural provenance of Sumban iconography from which Itang’s take on Islamic fashion chooses to appropriate.
Upbeat Middle-Eastern music kick-started the show and the first sequence featured long tunic dresses in sky blue and lime green hues. Tenun Sumba’s motifs, in neat prints, adorned many parts of the eye-catching garments.
A jacket, made of neoprene and printed with east Sumban motif of dragons, was an especially stunning piece. Paired with a loose top and palazzo pants, the structured jacket lent the model a sassy, confident look on the catwalk.
The men’s outfits in this sequence were made Baju Koko style, men’s shirts with Nehru collars adorned with Sumban geometric designs. Some of the male models also wore long pants made of printed neoprene. The rigid structure of the material contributed to their neat, tailored looks.
(Photo courtesy of Jakarta Fashion Week 2015)
The second sequence of the show presented a series of caftans printed with various Sumban motifs in indigo blue hues.
“Blue will be the new black next year,” Itang said.
In-keeping with this color sentiment, a white-and-blue caftan, printed with the Sumban motif of standing men, was particularly striking. The caftan had a chic empire cut that gave the already elegant model a slim and tall silhouette.
Beautiful handmade shoes by Indonesian shoe designer Nefrin Fadlan was also a highlight of the fashion show. Her shoes, adorned with beads, seashells and tassels, completed the exotic look of the female models. The male models wore ankle-high gladiator sandals, also by Nefrin Fadlan, decorated with massive Sumban motifs.
The female models wore jilbabs styled with “gypsy” references, tied simply in the back. According to Itang, this style of head covering will be very on-trend next year. Some of the male models wore traditional Islamic nationalist hats known as peci embellished with Sumban motifs.
The final sequence showcased glamorous Muslim evening dresses for women. These evening gowns, in a blazing red color, had loose silhouettes and high collars adorned with crystals and floral appliques.
Handmade tote bags and clutches by Indonesian handbag designer and former fashion model, Mira Sayogo, complimented the women’s looks. These bags, made of genuine leather, were embellished with beads, embroideries and tassels to complete their luxurious style on the catwalk.
The male models in this sequence wore formal suits, made of structured scuba foam, in navy blue and terracotta hues. Their bold masculine looks drew a long round of applause from the full-house audience at the end of the fashion show.
On the prestigious runway of JFW 2015, Itang has again proven his mettle as a talented fashion designer with creative flair and a unique ability to showcase indigenous Indonesian fabric.
The post Itang Yunasz Takes Tenun Sumba to the Runway appeared first on The Jakarta Globe.